47 days, 675 pitons, and one middle finger to purists — this is how legends are forged.
On November 12, 1958, nearly a year and a half after planting his first piton, Warren Harding climbed to the summit of El Capitan, the legendary face of Yosemite, which he became the first to climb via the equally legendary Nose route. An extraordinary undertaking closer to a heavy Himalayan expedition than to rock climbing. Climbing mainly on weekends in the fall and spring with companions whose level of skill was of little importance to him, Warren Harding spent a total of 47 days (spread over 17 months) on the face. 675 pitons (including 125 expansion pitons) and several thousand hammer blows were necessary to build his legend, despite the displeasure of the "Christians of the valley," as he somewhat sardonically nicknamed Royal Robbins and his cronies, who swear by style.
Direction
Derryberry lets Harding's voice drive—unpolished, hilarious, unforgettable.
Editing
Seamless weave of 1958 16mm footage with reflective interviews.
Production
Period climbing gear porn that'll make your palms sweat.
Director
Roger Derryberry
Trivia, insights & behind the scenes
Harding's team used homemade wooden 'sky hooks' when pitons failed—literal MacGyvering 2,000 feet up.
This ascent predated the Yosemite Renaissance by years; Harding's dirtbag ethic became the park's dominant climbing culture through the 60s and 70s.
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